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Investigations

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shlepakoff
03.02.2011, 20:53 Просмотр для печати

ilya

Зарегистрирован: 29.06.2009, 18:33
Местонахождение: Houston-Москва
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Post your questions and findings here

[ Редактирование 13.02.2011, 03:03 ]

Ваше шило, наше мыло: [link]
[link]
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Snapcase
04.02.2011, 07:40
ГостьHey, that's great. An English language section. Thanks so much, Shlepakoff.
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shlepakoff
05.02.2011, 00:11

ilya

Зарегистрирован: 29.06.2009, 18:33
Местонахождение: Houston-Москва
Сообщений: 3971
Snapcase, great to hear form you! Believe it or not, but I was just going to invite you to rejoin now that sovieguitars officially speaks English. It would be fantastic to see you become a regular in this section. Feel free to promote this section on europeanguitars as well.

Ваше шило, наше мыло: [link]
[link]
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Snapcase
09.02.2011, 07:05
ГостьThanks Shlepakoff. I gave up because of the language difficulties. But I'm glad to be back.

[ Редактирование 09.02.2011, 07:05 ]
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shlepakoff
09.02.2011, 19:30

ilya

Зарегистрирован: 29.06.2009, 18:33
Местонахождение: Houston-Москва
Сообщений: 3971
That was exactly the idea!
A lot of the folks who are regulars here were really excited when you first joined, so I believe continuing the attempt to bring our experience and expertise together can only be beneficial for everyone.

Ваше шило, наше мыло: [link]
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shlepakoff
04.04.2011, 13:35

ilya

Зарегистрирован: 29.06.2009, 18:33
Местонахождение: Houston-Москва
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Trying to dig up info on some rare Orfeus guitars here: [link]

Ваше шило, наше мыло: [link]
[link]
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hobo_nephew
04.06.2011, 12:20
ГостьHi!
I was hoping to get some help. Just bought an old Elektronika 5-band equalizer but I can't get it to work. There were no battery connector so I soldered one to the power-connection on the side. I tried to check for bad soldering but since it's just dead silent I could really use some help..

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Alex
04.06.2011, 13:39
Гостьhobo nephew, this device can be powered on with the jumper in IN/OUT DIN-connector (in cable).
And you can try to change all oxide capacitors and check polarity of battery.
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hobo_nephew
04.06.2011, 18:13
ГостьSince I don't have any DIN-cables except the two DIN-to-6mm jack cables that came along with the effect I hooked the battery cable up to the same pins that would give it power through the cable (picture below). but I will doublecheck.
As for the capacitors, are oxide the same as tantalum?
Thanks for the fast answers, I really hope to get this cool pedal working soon, as I recently bought an elektronika/venta flanger that needs fixing as well.

[ Редактирование 04.06.2011, 18:14 ]
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hobo_nephew
04.06.2011, 18:17
Гость

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lordbizarre
05.06.2011, 16:23

ID пользователя #2427
Зарегистрирован: 22.02.2011, 16:44
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Ooh stop !!
As I can see you connected the battery on pin 4 & 5 of the DIN-plug,that's wrong ! Those pins are usualy used to connect the pos. or neg. of the batt. to the circuit .If using the original DIN-cable you'll see that pin 4 & 5 are internally short circuited,thus making a connextion via 4 & 5 via that DIN-plug for the batt. If ,as here (but I can't see it 100% clearly) if you plug in the DIN-plug you just short-circuit the battery,who will be empty within a dozen of seconds !!!
I don't know if the + or - of the battery is(was)connected to the "ground/housing"...that's now to find out to correct/connect the battery...a schematic would help a lot !!!!!
((with all reserve : usualy the + 9V is connected to the housing , the -9V goes to pin 4 , then pin 5 goes to the circuitry.This WITH ALL RESERVE !!!!!! )))

"lordbizarre's electric guitar and amp museum"
repair & expertise guitars and amps
Belgium , ?pe
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hobo_nephew
05.06.2011, 18:16
ГостьYes you are correct I did connect the battery to pin 4 & 5. But as you can see in the photo these wires goes to +/- on the board, as well as to the housing, a previous owner also carved + & - to the outside of the housing. I actually tried the battery both ways but it did not make any difference, battery is still working.
Yes a schematic would help a lot! but I cannot find it anywhere on the web..

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hobo_nephew
05.06.2011, 18:17
Гостьsecond image

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bay
05.06.2011, 19:34

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I see +9V -9V on the board... so forget about DIN pins. Too be sure replace ALL electrolytic capasitors! K50-6 series the worst cap in all times! They can dry completely for 2-5 year (0mf capasity)!
As i see your K50-6 caps made at 1982.
... and do not touch ceramic caps... green tantalum caps are the best ceramic caps from all the world!


[ Редактирование 05.06.2011, 19:40 ]

In your country, you play the guitar, in Soviet Russia, guitar plays you!!
Мой Wish лист [link] Моя почта bayerfor(гав-гав)rambler.ru Обмен "раритетами" [link]
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hobo_nephew
05.06.2011, 19:47
ГостьOk thanks. I'll replace the electrolytic capacitors (there are 4 of them) and see if it helps!
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lordbizarre
05.06.2011, 20:33

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yes , changing electrolytic cap's never harm !I also noticed + & - 9V on the pcb , so that's something to go on .Is that 100µF capacitor directly connected over the +/- 9V ?
Only thing I don't like :
" I actually tried the battery both ways ",
so I hope there was no connection with the pcb because transistors don't like inverse power/tension and can be destroyed instantly with reversed tension .
good luck and keep us posted!!

"lordbizarre's electric guitar and amp museum"
repair & expertise guitars and amps
Belgium , ?pe
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hobo_nephew
05.06.2011, 21:12
ГостьIt's working! Luckily I had all the values at home. Thanks a lot guys!
Feel very lucky to have one of these
And yes one of the 100uF are connected to + and + for some strange reason. (???)

And I might as well jump right on my next problem, the Elektronika Flanger I mentioned earlier. It works partially. First of all it takes about 30 min for it to start working (it comes gradually), and second, the flanging itself doesn't work. The other controls do work (depth, manual, color). Luckily I do have the schematics for this one, but I don't know what does what or where to start. Perhaps start by changing some capacitors?

Pictures here:
[link]

[ Редактирование 05.06.2011, 21:22 ]
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bay
06.06.2011, 04:50

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hobo_nephew Цитата ...

It's working! Luckily I had all the values at home. Thanks a lot guys!
Feel very lucky to have one of these
And yes one of the 100uF are connected to + and + for some strange reason. (???)

And I might as well jump right on my next problem, the Elektronika Flanger I mentioned earlier. It works partially. First of all it takes about 30 min for it to start working (it comes gradually), and second, the flanging itself doesn't work. The other controls do work (depth, manual, color). Luckily I do have the schematics for this one, but I don't know what does what or where to start. Perhaps start by changing some capacitors?

Pictures here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hobonephew/5793212546/in/photostream

Good
Universal soviet electronics repairing rules:
1) Change all electrolytic caps.
...and if it still not works
2) Start thinking by schematics...


[ Редактирование 06.06.2011, 08:23 ]

In your country, you play the guitar, in Soviet Russia, guitar plays you!!
Мой Wish лист [link] Моя почта bayerfor(гав-гав)rambler.ru Обмен "раритетами" [link]
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lordbizarre
06.06.2011, 07:38

ID пользователя #2427
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when changing capacitors doesn't help : you've to measure all resistances and/or find someone who can do it for you...but also it's better to find someone with an oscilloscope who can check the waves on the 4 testpoints and also some indicated tensions...if they don't work then the're's a major problem :first determine the working of the IC's and if found a faulthy one you've to find a replacement !!!
Another thing : the 100µF across the + & - is there to eliminate some voltage drops if using an external power supply , thus with a 9V battery it isn't nessesary
succes !

[ Редактирование 06.06.2011, 07:45 ]

"lordbizarre's electric guitar and amp museum"
repair & expertise guitars and amps
Belgium , ?pe
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hobo_nephew
06.06.2011, 10:20
ГостьOk then I'll start by changing all electrolytic capacitors and report back after that!
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bay
07.06.2011, 08:19

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hobo_nephew Цитата ...

Ok then I'll start by changing all electrolytic capacitors and report back after that!

hobo_nephew it's an offtop, but can we (i think this want to know not just me) ask you, what the point of your interest of soviet stompboxes?

[ Редактирование 07.06.2011, 08:24 ]

In your country, you play the guitar, in Soviet Russia, guitar plays you!!
Мой Wish лист [link] Моя почта bayerfor(гав-гав)rambler.ru Обмен "раритетами" [link]
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hobo_nephew
09.06.2011, 12:07
ГостьWell, I've been building stompboxes for both friends and myself for a while, and always found my inspiration from old effects, especially the soviet ones, because I really like the robust look. And when I found the elektronika eq on Ebay I decided it was time I bought a real one And there will most likely be more in the future!
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hobo_nephew
21.06.2011, 22:14
ГостьI finally got the capacitors I ordered, so I replaced all the electrolytic ones in my flanger, and it worked right away Thanks again for the great tip!
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bay
22.06.2011, 08:39

ID пользователя #669
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hobo_nephew Цитата ...

I finally got the capacitors I ordered, so I replaced all the electrolytic ones in my flanger, and it worked right away Thanks again for the great tip!

U always welcome!
USSR-stompboxes ...they weird & unusual, they have uniqe "undeclared sound" - that's why they COOL!

In your country, you play the guitar, in Soviet Russia, guitar plays you!!
Мой Wish лист [link] Моя почта bayerfor(гав-гав)rambler.ru Обмен "раритетами" [link]
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hobo_nephew
24.06.2011, 09:21
ГостьCouldn't agree more with you, Soviet stompboxes are the coolest!
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